Showing posts with label Avedon. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Avedon. Show all posts

23 February 2014

Henry James Portrait VI




"Everything about Florence seems to be coloured with a mild violet, like diluted wine."
Letter to Henry James Sr. (26 October 1869)


 Jean Shrimpton by Avedon









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21 February 2014

Henry James Portraits V

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"In art economy is always beauty."
The Altar of the Dead- Henry James






all portraits by the ever brilliant Richard AVEDON

Henrietta, Duchess of Bedford
Dolores Guinness
Princess Elizabeth of Yugoslavia
 Antonella Agnelli
Marella Agnelli
Vicomtesse Jacqueline de Ribes






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08 February 2012

Soane on Fabrics

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SOANE   founder LULU LYTIE has developed the company's first fabric collection with the look of documents and lost & found scraps from ancient textile pieces. A number of the fabrics in the SOANE collection are hand-printed or woven in the UK.

The Damascus Stripe comes vibrantly to life in Soane's styling (above). I love the very pink walls & the textile lamp shade & textile fragment hanging on the wall-all set on a larger looking version of the fabric- a stripe rug.



Damascus Stripe is a silk based on a 19th Century Syrian original




The Leon de Smet painting- Little Girl at the Table inspired-
A PATCHWORK OF SOANE'S COLLECTION





Symi


This Soane piece Symi -a handprinted linen,could have been plucked right out of the Avedon photograph-





My favorite from the SOANE Collection- PAW PRINT


Paw Print is inspired by an African print from the 1940's or 1950's.










Ottoman Scribe -another Soane hand printed linen



Panel from kaftan


Ottoman Scribe was inspired by a photograph in LULU LYTIE's  book of antique photographs from North Africa







in a recent Vogue- Lulu Lytle said "I wanted the fabrics to feel as if they were the continuation of an antique fragment I might stumble across in a souk or bazaar" -
 What do you sell O ye merchants ?
Richly your wares are displayed.
Turbans of crimson and silver,
Tunics of purple brocade,
Mirrors with panels of amber,
Daggers with handles of jade.

What do you make,O ye goldsmiths?
Wristlet and anklet and ring,
Bells for the feet of blue pigeons
Frail as a dragon-fly’s wing,
Girdles of gold for dancers,
Scabbards of gold for the king.

What do you weave, O ye flower-girls
With tassels of azure and red?
Crowns for the brow of a bridegroom,
Chaplets to garland his bed.
Sheets of white blossoms new-garnered
To perfume the sleep of the dead




SOANE images are linked throughout this post-as is their website-



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02 February 2012

Babe Paley: style, grace, gesture

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BABE PALEY by AVEDON





Zac Posen's Pre Fall Collection-BABE CHIC style

the Rooms-the Houses

the Grace- the Gesture




24 January 2012

the NEW New Look

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Last week Sarah Burton unveiled her Pre-Fall Collection for ALEXANDER MCQUEEN. The details are pure Couture. As in the startling New Look from Christian Dior's first ever collection. Dior cinched the waist, softened shoulders and gave the ladies full skirts-very full skirts. Feminine. Romantic. Pretty.



Remember this was a war weary sartorial world.

Along with this New Look, women were ready to embrace the same femininity and softness in their interiors. Dior's New Look would hold sway through the decade and some of the most beautifully photographed women like Babe Paley became Swans. She would dress so well she was inducted into the Fashion Hall of Fame in 1958.  The patrician Marella Agnelli was Truman Capote's youngest & only European swan. Agnelli was named to the International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame in 1963.These two Swans were referred to by Capote as "Numero Uno"-Babe Paley and "European Numero Uno"- Marella Agnelli.





“a gathering of swans, an aloof armada . . . their feathers floating away over the water like the trailing hems of snowy ball-gowns”  from the 19th century journal of Patrick Conway- that prompted Capote's naming of the Swans.

Capote would elaborate in detail on his swans in photographer Richard Avedon’s book Observations.
The most elegant and memorable interiors of the decade were not Of the decade- No, No-but of another era defined by elegance and romance- the Watteau painting,  the curves of a Louis XV fauteuil. When they did up their rooms however they looked for comfort and light-in this they differed from these more formal Versailles interiors.





Today- Lifestyles don't adapt nearly so well to Dior's New Look. What can we take away from Its idea?  Certainly how we live as much as how we dress is important.
Suggestion-Pare down some of the wacky 50's decor in rooms-add the comfortable fauteuil in an oversize check, a Indiennes print. Take cues from Billy Baldwin's decoration of the Paley apartments at the St. Regis. Refine.




Enter Bill Gaytten with his Spring Couture Collection for CHRISTIAN DIOR that is pure DIOR, & isn't that Appropriate? The beauty of the workroom as seem in The Day Before Dior- by Stephanie LaCava with photographs by Greg Kessler from T Magazine here




Voilà




Beautiful. Feminine. Is there something in the air besides Spring? Women are ready for the breezy prettiness of full skirts. Sheer sleeves and gloves- Yes please to gloves. No collection exhibits that femininity more than Christian Dior's Couture Collection for Spring & Summer in 1957 & no photograph captures that collection more than Cecil Beaton's ladder of  preening mannequins in an elegant ballroom of gilded chairs- and Yes, the uber- sophisticated freshness of a lacquered Louis XV settee in Soigné  grey.



& the SWANS- were still gliding over the ice skimmed lake of Narcissism.







Read the Met's Costume Institute Christian Dior Fashion Bio here
more Marella Agnelli here STYLE.com
more Babe Paley here VOGUE.com

photographs: the New Look silhouette 1947, Babe Paley photograph by Erwin Blumenfeld  from Vogue.com (sited above), Dior fashion in the French Room, & from the collection of images- from the pages of Vogue- Dior ads and drawings from Rene Gruau, Alexander McQueen's Pre-Fall Collection from Vogue.com here,  & the interiors of P Gaye Tapp, Vere Grenney, Billy Baldwin and Jansen and Sister Parish, the bedroom of Marella Agnelli, Turin Italy. portraits of Babe Paley and Marella Agnelli by Richard Avedon.
& 1,2-photographs by Greg Kessler. 3 -photograph by Pascal Le Segreta
photographs: The Spring 2012 Colletion of DIOR,  Cecil Beaton's photograph of Christian Dior 1957 Spring Collection, CZ Guest New Year's Eve 1956. image collection 2-Cecil Beaton's photograph of Christian Dior 1957 Spring Collection, Vogue.com Christian Dior Spring  2012 Couture

21 December 2011

& lo

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Photograph by Richard Avedon


We trust in plumed procession
For such the angels go -
Rank after Rank, with even feet -
And uniforms of Snow.
~Emily Dickinson


 

 

Angel, Photograph by Richard Avedon, Jean Paul Gaultier 2000
White feather evening cape ,Collection of Elizabeth Taylor Christie's
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12 December 2011

a Trip: exotic INDIA, Paris-Bombay via KL@CHANEL &...

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Mughal architecture in the hexagonal courtyard at Monserrate Palace, 
Sintra Portugal

 built in 1858 for Sir Francis Cook, an English baronet created visconde de Monserrate by King Luís, 
English architect, James Knowles Jr. designed the Palace
(image from Exotic Taste Orientalist Interiors-Emmanuelle Gaillard and Marc Walter)







all that was missing were the
ELEgant 
ELLEphants



photograph by Norman Parkinson
Anne Gunning in a Pink Mohair Coat outside the City Palace, Jaipur, India
Vogue, November, 1956


Color me in colors of love,

Color me in your love.
Color my scarf and my lover’s turban,
Color them both in the colors of spring.
Whatever you ask in return
I will give you.
I will pawn my youth
If you will
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-Amir Khusrau, (1253-1325 AD)

 


& of course we all know,
Pink is the Navy Blue of INDIA, 
according to High Priestess Diana Vreeland

Deborah Turbeville portrait







why isn't there an iconic shot of Her on an ELLEphant? 
or even a woven tapestry of the Great One like this?
Can you see it?


ASIA, from 1844
made by the Sallandrouze Factory, after Jean- Baptiste Amedee Couder
(image from Exotic Taste Orientalist Interiors-Emmanuelle Gaillard and Marc Walter)



We must just use our Imaginations-
or revisit AVEDON's glory.




at the Cirque d’hiver, Paris, in August 1955
gowns by DIOR







A pose like this-
with 
Hermes Orange as the Navy Blue of INDIA.



 
"DIAN" by Hermes




Maharaja of Patiala, wearing a diamond and platinum parade necklace created by Cartier in 1928









According to KARL,when questioned by  Vogue's Mark Holgate,






No argument with KL.
OK.

"Black and Ivory"
 Lagerfeld is more Chanel than Chanel.

 


NO,
COCO was The Original,
but KARL,
Is her High Priest.






 High Priest of the Rock Temple
India, 1871.







The collection, Pre-Fall, was shown in the Raj–worthy backdrop created in the cavernous chamber of the Galerie Courbe in the Grand Palais, complete with an eye-popping table laid for a feast and Mughal–carved stone walls, Lagerfeld’s vision of the country (which he has never been to, incidentally; perhaps he sides with the idea that you can see a place more clearly when you look at it from afar) -Mark Colgate-review for VOGUE.com


all excerpts from Mark Colgate's review are linked within this text, READ his entire review at VOGUE.com here
all Chanel Pre-Fall images from Vogue.com by Yannis Vlamos of GoRunway.com or Remy de la Mauviniere  of the ASSOCIATED PRESS


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