royal WALLIS Tyrian Purple

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1936

 very WALLIS-by Roland Mouret

 'purple'  from the Old English word purpul , deriving from the Latin purpura, & from there the Greek πορφύρα (porphura), name of the Tyrian purple dye manufactured in classical antiquity from  mucus secreted by the spiny dye-murex snail. The first recorded use of the word 'purple' in English was in the year A.D. 975.

Royal purple, Tyrian purple, purple of the ancients

 after the collapse of the Western Roman Empire in AD 476, Europeans' idea of purple shifted towards this more bluish purple known as royal purple because of its similarity to the royal blue worn by the aristocracy. This was the shade of purple worn by kings in medieval Europe.

making Tyrian Purple
The most favourable season for taking these fish [i.e., shellfish] is after the rising of the Dog-star, or else before spring; for when they have once discharged their waxy secretion, their juices have no consistency: this, however, is a fact unknown in the dyers' workshops, although it is a point of primary importance. After it is taken, the vein [i.e., hypobranchial gland] is extracted, which we have previously spoken of, to which it is requisite to add salt, a sextarius [about 20 ounces (567 grams)] about to every hundred pounds of juice. It is sufficient to leave them to steep for a period of three days, and no more, for the fresher they are, the greater virtue there is in the liquor. It is then set to boil in vessels of tin [or lead], and every hundred amphoræ ought to be boiled down to five hundred pounds of dye, by the application of a moderate heat; for which purpose the vessel is placed at the end of a long funnel, which communicates with the furnace; while thus boiling, the liquor is skimmed from time to time, and with it the flesh, which necessarily adheres to the veins. About the tenth day, generally, the whole contents of the cauldron are in a liquefied state, upon which a fleece, from which the grease has been cleansed, is plunged into it by way of making trial; but until such time as the colour is found to satisfy the wishes of those preparing it, the liquor is still kept on the boil. The tint that inclines to red is looked upon as inferior to that which is of a blackish hue. The wool is left to lie in soak for five hours, and then, after carding it, it is thrown in again, until it has fully imbibed the colour. -Pliny the Elder, on Tyrian purple in his Natural History.

dresses in wallis tyrian, all from net a porter
DVF, & at center-maison martin margiela

her extraordinary jewels went well with the severity of line.

Style is a simple way of saying complicated things. Jean Cocteau

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