20 June 2010

Poiret on the Faubourg Saint-Honore


Paul and Denise Poiret having breakfast in bed.
their design style?
Bohemian- full of pattern-the walls were a red and blue fabric, bold floors, a stripe,a provencal style printed cloth. The Poiret's set up a small table at the foot of the bed with stools pulled up for idling the afternoon in away with a guest or two perhaps?  Above the bed-Dutch painter-Kees van Dongen's Quietude.

Denise shown here in the same room- but a different painting by van Dongen and a Indiennes print on the bed. Kees van Dongen's circle of friends-the Poirets, of course, and the likes of the infamous Marchesa CASATI.




Kees van Dongen "Woman with black stockings"



 Marquesa Casati- Kees van Dongen


Kiki Montparnasse- Kees van Dongen




Josephine Baker- Kees van Dongen


Poiret's father- a shopkeeper.
Poiret -Legendary Couturier.
Paul Poiret turned to dressmaking in 1896 after meeting Jacques Doucet. A visit to Vienna in 1910 & an introduction to Josef Hoffman solidified the Poiret look. His Atelier Martine and Maison Martine on the Fauborg Saint -Honore drew stylish women and men to gaze at the designs of Poiret: rugs, carpets, wallpapers and of course the clothes. Painter Julian Louis Sue worked with Paul Poiret on designs and atelier interiors- Sue left to establish his own design firm and went on to become an influential designer in Paris with Andre Mare.




 Poiret's creativity knew no bounds at the time-Raoul Dufy and Poiret began printing their textile designs, long time collaborators-In their studio- La Petite Usine- the two captured in daring color combinations and patterns-the spirit of the restless era their friends ran about in.


les pavots
from the Textile Blog here



A costly undertaking to decorate 3 barges at the 1925 Paris Exposition, brought  Paul Poiret to his knees financially. Like so many designers, Poiret could not reduce the cost of the creative process. That Poiret's style lives on is evident in that the POIRET aesthetic continues to reappear on the fashion and design landscape.





Poiret inspired by John Galiano for Dior.
"A Couturier, has as many languages as he has fabrics 
with which to sing of the beauty of women."
Poiret






Steven Meisel photographs Natalia Vodianova
for Vogue

Poiret screen





"If you want to attract attention," Doucet is said to have told a young Poiret, "be seen in fashionable places with a striking young lady whom you dress according to your own ideas and develop into a special type of your own."



1919 Photograph by Delphi 
read a Hamish Bowles article about Poiret-here




Denise Poiret 
 POIRET'S best model




the Original



 Denise Poiret
She had "a very independent, almost exhibitionist spirit." Harold Koda



Denise Poiret's Own
at Drouot Richelieu Auction House
photograph from Luxe Chronicles.



 images from GYPSET STYLE
by Julia Chaplin







 an Edward Zajac designed Dining Room
walls covered in custom designed papers and cutouts.


 POIRET STYLE



A Garouste & Bonetti interior, Hong Kong
in Elle Decor The Grand Book of French Style






A Poiret designed bedroom



Mural design by Fromental
"Willow"




...in fact one need only look back to the bedroom Denise and Paul Poiret shared on the Faubourg Saint-Honore to find all the elements of POIRET style.



read this essay by Sue Hay,Curator of Costume and Textiles Museum of Art, RID here
read about Kees van Dongen here
images from mensioranne at Picasa here
Iribe's pochoir "Les Robes de Paul Poiret" (1908) at artphile here
.

20 comments:

  1. From Miss Marple to Poiret - we're missing only Hercule? Very entertaining posts. I was lucky enough to happen on a first edition of Poiret's autobiography earlier this year, En Habillant l'Epoque. Poiret was a talented writer as well. Though he had a slight chip on his shoulder due to financial woes, he remains lively, never heavy. He painted a lot toward the end of his life. I have a small painting by him hanging in my kitchen.

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  2. Little Augury.What color and style you have amassed for Poiret and his stylish wifey. She was everything to his work to my mind. I am crazy about the two interiors you selected. They get to the heart of Poiret like none other. The Met show was divine. The man was simply a little genius. A.

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  3. G- Yes, he seems to be everywhere and in your Kitchen! Please let me sneak a peek!-pgt

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  4. A-these two interiors have been languishing in a file waiting to be used somewhere. Glad they meet your approval. pgt

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  5. Love the gypsy look. Doesn't work well as garden togs, however. Agree about request to see Poiret in le style's kitchen.

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  6. Oops forgot to add thanks for the Marple reminder. It was yummy. Perfect end to a lovely day.

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  7. In raptures. These images are food for the spirit - who said style isn't substance? (Speaking of which - or whom! - Style et Matiere must share a peek at the Poiret painting!!!!)

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  8. Where to even begin! Starting with the incredible paintings over the Poiret's beds and moving through a crush of inspiration – one after another. This is an incredible post.

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  9. Wow what a beautiful post! The Metropolitan Museum mounted a show on Poiret a few years ago, did you see it? A wonderful array of riches --
    bb

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  10. Home,I love the gyset look too-have lots of summer caftans-too hot to brave the flowers here already.I planted nothing new this year.

    Elizabeth-the first image of the Poiret's in bed was the jumping off point for this post and I love the van Dongen paintings so much.

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  11. Emily, we all need our eye candy! I would love to have that willow tree casting shadows anywhere in my house.
    Yes, we need to see the Kitchen Poiret.

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  12. Bart, thanks for coming by. I did not see the show- the book had to suffice. I am heading to NYC in July and can not wait to see the current show. I loved your posts on it and the interviews too. thanks for doing that. pgt

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  13. I had to come back to this again today as there is so much inspiration here. That Greek key. I know it's supposed to be over, but I love it so. It makes me want to paint a room today.

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  14. I'm impressed by your home work. Bravo

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  15. Blimey, LA, I go away for a few days and you've been busy busy as always. This is a glorious blockbuster darling.

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  16. Mrs.Blandings, how I love inspiring-well not me exactly- but putting it together!

    Ivan- a worthy subject and so little tapped into here.

    Rosie-oh-blockbuster!, I like it.

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  17. Previously, I've not had the JOY of reading this post until today and Mrs. Blandings peacocky inspiration! LOVE all, truly... Especially the Kees van Dongen painting of Marquesa Casati! Reminds me of Vertes. Thanks for the amazing inspiration early this morning. xx

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  18. Previously, I've not had the JOY of reading this post until today and Mrs. Blandings peacocky inspiration! LOVE all, truly... Especially the Kees van Dongen painting of Marquesa Casati! Reminds me of Vertes. Thanks for the amazing inspiration early this morning. xx

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  19. that sort of mercury glass looking vase at the foot of the bed is all i need...
    Beth

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  20. such an inspiring post. thanks for sharing.

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