Showing posts with label John Galiano. Show all posts
Showing posts with label John Galiano. Show all posts

05 March 2012

REPRISE: LaVande

.


last May,  We were talking about Lavender & its Kith & Kin-this year this vaporous  color is appearing on the Fashion Runways-especially in Paris with great substance &  soul.
Dusted Lavender.
Drenched Lilac.


at   ROCHAS                                                                                  


at NINA RICCI



BOLDINI.



at DEACON- Giles,


at  ETRO




such divine Mongiardino.




Giorgione Barbarelli



at CELINE


& at GALLIANO-



His VENUS.




there was  HASLAM'S "charred Violet" at NINA RICCI- 



&  again at ROCHAS.





& at
BALENCIAGA-




there was PENN.




Shades of  DEGAS, WHISTLER,



MENIL.



Whether Lavender, Lilac or- Violet I've long Adored this COLOR  in its moods
& past tenses.


Michael Pacher's Mary of Burgundy, image 1.
fashion images from DAZED, and from VOGUE.
.



08 January 2011

yes, Virginia

.


 Nancy, dressed at enormous expense by the greatest artists in Paris, 
stood there looking as if her body had merely put forth, 
of its own accord, a green frill.
 Virginia Woolf







image of Christian Lacroix Spring 2009 Couture


.

20 June 2010

Poiret on the Faubourg Saint-Honore


Paul and Denise Poiret having breakfast in bed.
their design style?
Bohemian- full of pattern-the walls were a red and blue fabric, bold floors, a stripe,a provencal style printed cloth. The Poiret's set up a small table at the foot of the bed with stools pulled up for idling the afternoon in away with a guest or two perhaps?  Above the bed-Dutch painter-Kees van Dongen's Quietude.

Denise shown here in the same room- but a different painting by van Dongen and a Indiennes print on the bed. Kees van Dongen's circle of friends-the Poirets, of course, and the likes of the infamous Marchesa CASATI.




Kees van Dongen "Woman with black stockings"



 Marquesa Casati- Kees van Dongen


Kiki Montparnasse- Kees van Dongen




Josephine Baker- Kees van Dongen


Poiret's father- a shopkeeper.
Poiret -Legendary Couturier.
Paul Poiret turned to dressmaking in 1896 after meeting Jacques Doucet. A visit to Vienna in 1910 & an introduction to Josef Hoffman solidified the Poiret look. His Atelier Martine and Maison Martine on the Fauborg Saint -Honore drew stylish women and men to gaze at the designs of Poiret: rugs, carpets, wallpapers and of course the clothes. Painter Julian Louis Sue worked with Paul Poiret on designs and atelier interiors- Sue left to establish his own design firm and went on to become an influential designer in Paris with Andre Mare.




 Poiret's creativity knew no bounds at the time-Raoul Dufy and Poiret began printing their textile designs, long time collaborators-In their studio- La Petite Usine- the two captured in daring color combinations and patterns-the spirit of the restless era their friends ran about in.


les pavots
from the Textile Blog here



A costly undertaking to decorate 3 barges at the 1925 Paris Exposition, brought  Paul Poiret to his knees financially. Like so many designers, Poiret could not reduce the cost of the creative process. That Poiret's style lives on is evident in that the POIRET aesthetic continues to reappear on the fashion and design landscape.





Poiret inspired by John Galiano for Dior.
"A Couturier, has as many languages as he has fabrics 
with which to sing of the beauty of women."
Poiret






Steven Meisel photographs Natalia Vodianova
for Vogue

Poiret screen





"If you want to attract attention," Doucet is said to have told a young Poiret, "be seen in fashionable places with a striking young lady whom you dress according to your own ideas and develop into a special type of your own."



1919 Photograph by Delphi 
read a Hamish Bowles article about Poiret-here


Denise Poiret 
 POIRET'S best model




a POIRET



 Denise Poiret
She had "a very independent, almost exhibitionist spirit." Harold Koda



Denise Poiret's Own
at Drouot Richelieu Auction House
photograph from Luxe Chronicles.



 images from GYPSET STYLE
by Julia Chaplin







 an Edward Zajac designed Dining Room
walls covered in custom designed papers and cutouts.


 POIRET STYLE



A Garouste & Bonetti interior, Hong Kong
in Elle Decor The Grand Book of French Style






A Poiret designed bedroom



Mural design by Fromental
"Willow"




...in fact one need only look back to the bedroom Denise and Paul Poiret shared on the Faubourg Saint-Honore to find all the elements of POIRET style.



read this essay by Sue Hay,Curator of Costume and Textiles Museum of Art, RID here
read about Kees van Dongen here
images from mensioranne at Picasa here
Iribe's pochoir "Les Robes de Paul Poiret" (1908) at artphile here
.

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