01 October 2012

le SARI





 A current article in September's Harper's Bazaar India-peeked my interest. I am fortunate my readers keep me informed! It's one of the very best things about this venture. In the article, Peter D'Ascoli discusses the continued reworking of traditional Indian textiles to make modern clothes-using the richness of the embroideries-the mirrors and the metal threads. The designers of India are immersed in this at the moment-their heritage is a constant lure.
 "Western designers have been inspired by the Orient and have used Indian themes and craft techniques for many years. We are now seeing a more literal use of fabric and silhouette which reflects India's growing importance as a creative force in Fashion and as a consuming market." Peter D'Ascoli

As I was reading Peter's article-aptly titled Haute Heritage, I couldn't help but notice India is everywhere in on the Spring 2013 fashion runways.


Marchesa's approach is subtle by comparison to some of the traditional Indian styling- but equally compelling.







Designers have been embracing India's traditional Sari and interpreting it for couture many years. I'm always drawn to these personally and have dropped clippings and photographs into files for years.


 Mainbocher, 1939.



Callaghan advert, 1980's
No-I haven't taken the borders I've collected and plaited them in my hair-but Oh I've been sorely tempted.


All of these trimmings and textiles spill right over into interiors.




 I've stashed away sarees for years-there is something irresistible about a silk fabric with yards and yards-about 8 in fact - that can wrap about the body to make a beautiful dress. Marchesa has taken that principle and given it form.

from Balmain



Last year Karl Lagerfeld trotted out scores of Maharajas and Maharanis wrapped,draped and bejeweled.

For Spring 2013,Manish Arora is turning this current idea on its ear- & goes one -or three beyond Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel. Modern-and maybe even a little sci fi- but still  his clothes are grounded in the idea of traditional Indian fashion. Borrowing from the men's wardrobe-a nehru jacket tops tunic and pants. Manish Arora is based in New Delhi and shows in Paris. Along with his own label he is creatived director for Paco Rabanne.




from the Manish Arora Collection, Spring 2013



and one of my favorite designers, Isabel Marant makes it all wearable for me- This jacket from her Spring 2013 Collection.





always there will be this renewing-and resourcing of a culture and a place like India. See how Peter is challenging it all-tradition and innovation at his website here.







.

3 comments:

  1. Those sari textiles have always been the "ultimate"; however very poorly understood!

    Brilliant examples!

    In the New York Times Style section today; such a perfect use of a sari!
    The wedding featured!

    If only I knew how to do a "link"!

    My former assistant has decamped to Europe! I have an ad on "Craig's list......Yikes!

    Maybe I have to post a blog about this!

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  2. Magnificent fabrics! Have always been attracted to all things India.

    ReplyDelete
  3. You do keep us informed, and I love it! Love the incorporation of Indian textiles, and I am reminded of the 19th century influence in fashion in that period with the European demand for cashmere or Kashmiri shawls, the paisley as decorative motif. Love the images here...Love the Balmain graphic. As always, your posts are a real treat.

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