Schlumming it, the pure style of Jean Schlumberger.

HIRO, 1962

Nothing brings me more pleasure than an old Vogue magazine. I've added copies to my library over the years-but since I've been writing a book-there has been an onslaught of them in the mailbox. As soon as one arrives-I immediately look for the Horst/ Lawford stories that spanned the sixties and the seventies. I've no doubt at some point there will be a definitive book with all their stories-Oh to compile that book!

Jean Schlumberger's house on Guadeloupe featured in 1971, is as one would expect- perfect in its timelessness. Next month's LSD feature-Lauren Santo Domingo's stories for Vogue, could feature the Schlumberger plantation and Vogue readers would go nuts-"swooning, dying, gobsmacked, being just all round smitten, etc etc.

Furnished simply, the property was a series of pavilions-galleries where Schlumberger lived mostly en plein air. For his studio-bedroom, he used blue batiks from Java, a navy linen from Hong Kong, locally made furniture-armoires, commodes, and painted pieces. 

In shades of pale blue or grey or blue-green, Schlumberger was inspired by the colors of the houses on Iles des Saintes and painted many of the pieces of furniture in the house himself.

An armoire painted by Schlumberger inspired by the fishermen's houses on the nearby Iles des Saintes.

Master Jeweler Jean Schlumberger at Bisdary

"toutes les emotions nourrisssent un esprit creatif." *

Uncluttered, letting the plants indigenous to Guadeloupe decorate another pavilion on the property.

Schlumberger mounted hibiscus flower heads daily on tall sticks (leaf stalks from a palm) and displayed them on a table in the same blue and white porcelain vessel surrounded by Chinese musicians' instruments.

The potting shed at Bisdary

Two months out of every year Schlumberger retreated to Guadeloupe to work on his jewelry designs. Guests were invited to Bisdary, but never disturbed Schlumberger's daily rituals of creativity.

So obvious, this retreat by the sea was a constant inspiration for the artist.

* all emotions nourish a creative spirit- Jean Schlumberger

just for a moment

too irresistible not to post on the most lovely MET GALA frocks.
not enough time or ill will to post about the others...

 1st

 a cleansing breath

Maggie Q in Tory Burch

Liya Kebede in Phillip Lim

2 

on message

the exhibition: China through the looking glass

Bee Shaffer in Alexander McQueen

 Lauren Santo Domingo in Proenza Schouler

 

3

Reality Check

apparently VOGUE doesn't know who this couple is, here captured by photographer PHIL OH, but they should hunt them down for a story on How to Look Better than any Celebrity at the Met Gala.

pictures are from Vogue.com

Bouché Portraits

The quick study for a portrait has always appealed, so too the captivating sketches of artist Rene Bouché. From his flowing lines, emerge apt portraits of stylish women that graced the pages of Vogue from the late 1930's until his death in 1963. He said "My style may be described as a kind of loving criticism." No sitter could have been disappointed in the results. In fact Bouché's chic portraits of society scions have been likened to the portraits of painters like Sargent, and Boldini.
It's easy to recognize his work-all the women are beautiful, coiffed, jeweled.
Do they look alike?
Yes-
but do they look uniquely themselves?
Yes-
that is Bouché.

 Mrs. John Drexel III

The Duchess of Windsor

(from the pages of Vogue, March 15,1954)

Rene Bouche here

in anticipation of...

.Charles James at the Met, of course.

“Millicent Rogers inspired [James] more than anyone. “He felt that she could help him to resolve a design when he wasn’t certain how to finish it.” Nancy Lee Gregory James, (Charles James' wife)

The Exhibition devoted to Charles James begins at the MET, May 8th.  The MET GALA on Monday, May 5.

Millecent Rogers photographs from the pages of The Genius of Charles James.

Heavenly Horst

,

Portrait of a Lady in Paris

photograph by HORST

Contessa Brandolini wearing pink in her bedroom, standing alongside a 17th century wooden figure in Dutch costume, fresh dahlias, and a canine companion.
A Victor Hugo sepia drawing hangs over a French boiserie mirror and panelling.

 In the Brandolini Salon on the Left Bank

photograph by HORST

Louis XIV Boulle armoires, a 17th century Giovanni Ghisolfi painting, 

and 17th century Italian stools fill the room reflecting the 17th century period of the Paris building.

the Contessa and the Venetian gondoliers, c. 1795.

photograph by HORST

a Contessa's Bedroom

photograph by HORST

Drawings of Piranesi and Ruskin hang on embroidered silk covered screens
at either side of a Venetian mirror and a Louis XV bed.

a Conte's Sitting Room

photograph by HORST

In a private alcove with velvet seating & masses of pillows-
a mirror frames the space with bookcases fitted into the alcove's sides. 

i

Passages

photograph by HORST

A hallway in the Brandolini Paris apartment is covered with a fresco,
and a 17th century Italian camel stands amidst its field of flowers.

I always cite Horst as a great influence on my taste in design. These photographs-once again-are proof of his great genius, especially his portraits of the owners in their rooms.

(from the pages of my 1967 November Vogue )



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stage presence

.

BEST Director...BEST Production...BEST Costumes...BEST Set Design in a magazine OCTOBER 2013 VOGUE

Grace Coddington styles Harold Pinter’s Betrayal -a tribute to the soon to be revived play on Broadway... 

the Players

model Karen Elson and actors Hugh Dancy and Michael Shannon

 Photographed by Annie Leibovitz

 

see the entire Production HERE

an Opera by Horst

.

the images of  HORST, be it Cy Twombly's palazzo in Rome, Gloria Vanderbilt in New York , Pauline de Rothschild's flat in London, her triumphant French Mouton, the London rooms of Princess Radizwill, all

have irrevocably  effected-and gratefully so- my eye.

What is a beautiful room, timeless design? 

Rooms that are inhabited, this is how Horst photographed his rooms -in most cases- for Vogue, owners living within the beautiful room-with its timeless design. 
Inspiring.

In an Italian Villa

an Opera

bel canto

 Maestro Horst P Horst

 

Liberetto by Valentine Lawford


Synopsis

Donna Marella Agnelli calls on a chorus of artisans from the region to restore her villa, along with a sextet of international experts.

 ...to the delight of all.

 

Aria  
  prima Donna Marella Agnelli

 posing for Horst in style at the restored Villa Agnelli, 1967

Aside  "Everyone had such a good time, that the rooms were finished in three months."

recitative

detail of a rare Chinoiserie console-with Piedmontese objects on view, the polychrome bust is of Carlo Emanuele, Duke of Savoy and King of Sardinia, his father, Victor Amadeus II, commissioned architect Fillipo Juvara to design the eighteenth century hunting seat.

 Crescendo

close up of the Rococo Piano Nobile, and in full-below

Finale

all photographs are by HORST, originally taken for VOGUE & published, January 1967

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the SEPTEMBER ISSUE

OFFICIALLY
A LETHAL WEAPON

...last year it was only dangerous to the postman.

billy boy

.

 Millicent Rogers and her dachshund, photograph by John Rawlings,1945.

friend Barbara over at my dog eared pages...

you know where this is going?
that "dog eared" is the giveaway No?



this is Billy-he belongs to Barbara.

Barbara's Billy, by Eric.

 you could say Billy is a beach bum-but don't tell his Mistress that
she'd say he's a beach stud.

 photograph by Toni Frissell, Vogue, 1938.

the dachshund is one of the breeds that seems to be destined for celebrity-as Billy attests to.

it must be their photogenic qualities...

Lillian Bassman photograph for Harper's Bazaar, 1954, from Christie's

Princess Caroline of Monaco with pups

Picasso with his "Lump"

destined for more than just 15 minutes-

the dachshund has taken its place in the celebrity dogs Hall of Fame.

Andy Warhol with his dog Archie, 1973, Photograph © Jack Mitchell

and below by Andy Warhol.

(but why is it so darned difficult to spell?) why not just spell LOVE.
 

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