06 February 2010

Valentino Histrionics 2008-2010 evolution revolution

Handpicked by Valentino himself  upon his retirement-


Alessandra Facchinetti


from the 1st FACCHINETTI show FALL 2008 COUTURE  Vogue's SARAH MOWER writes:'At the end, Facchinetti had the courage to put out two red chiffon dresses that, if pretty, fell some way short of the traditional Val showstoppers. Still, she had her own moment of head-turning excellence. It came when she put an immaculately cut black coat with a beautiful uprising scroll of a flounce in the back over a fluttery pink chiffon dress. That was the number that had women chattering as they left the room—proof enough that Facchinetti had survived her baptism by fire.'

 from AF's -FALL 2008 rtw

"I think the things Valentino created were timeless, I wanted to take something from the cleanliness of the sixties structure, but at the same time make things soft and light. But there is nothing too obvious." AF

SPRING 2009 ready to wear

her best


"I researched embroidery, looked at van Dyck and contemporary paper sculpture," she said. "I was looking for a strong way to interpret romance, but without the usual sweetness." AF

And from SARA MOWER again her viewpoint from Vogue's style.com on FALL 2008 Couture

'What made that instantly forgivable, though, were the moments when Facchinetti lightened up her designs with a waft of chiffon. There is something incredibly refined in her choices of barely-there tints of ivory, nude, eau de nil, dusty pink, and lilac, and in her finishes: minuscule rolled hems on trumpet sleeves, petal-like ruffles fluttering in the small of a back, and flyaway trains. As fragile as these might seem, they're a signature to build on, and one that Mr. Valentino, should he inspect this collection from afar, might feel rather happy to behold. '

..and to see Facchinetti wear her own designs so beautifully- a perfect touch!


SARA MOWER'S last review of FACCHINETTI :'And when it came to the big test—the red draped georgette evening dress—hers was unarguably lovely: a one-shouldered affair, made to look modern with the addition of flat jeweled slippers. The collection might have benefited from a follow-through on the fuzzily frothy blouses that could have been spot-on as a great selling item for Spring. In the end, though, a poignant sense of might-have-been hung in the air as Facchinetti took her bow. Whatever transpires next, the task of continuing this brand's integrity is surely not going to get any easier.'



Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri

& soothsayer MOWER:' What the new duo showed was a respectful collection that returned Valentino to all its familiar bases. If not exactly literal throwbacks'

the VALENTINO Accessory Designers elevated
Spring 2009 COUTURE

Nicole Phelps at style.com on V FALL 2009 rtw "the incumbent duo are keenly aware of the house codes, and today they adhered rather dutifully to the ladylike sensibility for which these clothes have always been known.'

FALL 2009 rtw

 to date

& Spring Couture 2010 MOWER 'Although Chiuri and Piccioli are now clearly addressing a wildly different world from the one Valentino held entranced, there were pieces that showcased the house's skill base.'

which way from here? 

It seems the V's wanted a quick fix-
perhaps another collection should have been in order for Fanchinetti?

at some point the V's  will have to let go- and let Valentino.

the end?


  1. Sarah Mower is brilliant! hitting it all. the reviews on the style site are pretty spot on-especially hers.

    Ulla has a great slant on couture on her blog, plus a great history of pearls too.

  2. Excellent post, la!
    A revealing retrospective of the transition.


    ** I'll take the black coat with that pink
    chiffon Elizabethan flounce , please.

  3. "I was looking for a strong way to interpret romance, but without the usual sweetness."


    ''...there were pieces that showcased the house's skill base.''

    So wonderful!

    You've inspired me to watch Matt Tyrnauer's ''Valentino: The Last Emperor'' for the zillionth time! It's snowing and snowing and snowing here today and I'm stuck inside... Sounds like the perfect solution, yes?

  4. I just went through the past few spring collections as a primer. Faschetti makes lovely clothes, but they're not memorable. Perhaps she should just open her own label and stop trying to fit into other's shoes. The new team is certainly memorable, but mostly indigestible. There are, however, several really inventive and wonderful things, the mushroom chiffon... Too bad its such a hodge podge. Then I went through Valentino's last collection, sigh... the comparisons underline how brilliant he was/is. But can the world pay for this now?

  5. To me the new duo represent all the worst in runway attention grabbing. Including the face-painting. Knock it off, please.

  6. Judith-that one is gorgeous, and in the end-doesn't a woman really want to look like that.

  7. Sach-yes do-love that movie, I need to watch it again. I wish the two had held on to Fanchinetti a bit longer.

  8. Balsam and Rose-I wonder if V will go the way of YSL- as IT said without Valentino there is no Valentino.

  9. Valentino post-Valentino is my favorite Valentino.

  10. The woman did a great job. A light touch on femininity and more importantly, she made the house suddenly relevent again. I don't think Ms. Facchinetti was handpicked by Valentino himself though. He actually wasn't pleased with what she did. It was Franca Sozzani who suggested the owners hire Facchinetti.



Related Posts with Thumbnails