fast forward

SPRING 2017, yes, it's Gingham, and yes, it's Carolina Herrera, and yes, it's How They Decorated! 
Yes, it's Coming...

Princely

Rodarte Fall 2015

I love the use of a classic pattern, in this instance the Prince-ly Prince of Wales Check , and  variations thereof on houndstooth- in the Anorak. Easily done, and equally well done by Michael Kors (the quintessential American sportswear designer), in the Trench.

Michael Kors, Fall 2015

the ORIGINAL

Designed by his King Edward VII when he was Prince of Wales, as livery for his hunts at Abergeldie Castle on Scotland’s Deeside it was popularised by his grandson the Duke of Windsor when he was Prince of Wales. Its authentic colours are red-brown on a white ground with a slate grey overcheck.

the one time Prince, Carte de Visite of King Edward VII c.1902.

& his Princely Grandson,

 Edward, Prince of Wales

Prince & Consort

Finally, Both designers get high marks for beautiful evening wear with the Ease, coincidentally, and familiarly, of The Duchess of Windsor.

KORS 2015

Rodarte 2015

fashion pictures from style.com and vogue uk.

dutch treat

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"Pennsylvania Dutch" quilted dress with gingham floral appliques designed by Adrian, 1947.



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gingham

check.


I Love the cover of the newest issue of WALTER.

yes, I'm still crazy over checks.
see what I stashing away at Pinterest on Gingham Mine here

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new Old Chambray

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a favorite fabric- Chambray. Everywhere this year- One of my favorite designers Junya Watanabe COMME des GARCONS- has used it. 

a man's jacket, I'd love to have this one myself. gosh, the lining alone. what about wearing this one inside out?

 image from here

It's no surprise someone like Watanabe has sculpted the simple cotton into serious tailoring. I've worn lots of Chambray-one of the honest to goodness favorite frocks of my Youth was a Ralph Lauren dress-Chambray button up the front-a shirt dress really-with crochet on the cuffs and collar. It came with a white heavy cotton d-ring belt but I wore it with a saddle brown "bit" belt instead. I added an antique white linen petticoat that was my great grandmother's under it and left the buttons open on part of the dress.

 Yes-I was doing  RL Western-(it was the 80's remember?)That dress was as soft as a nightgown. It went from "daywear" and years later to "nightwear"-I did finally wear it as a nightgown.

I also had a great Ralph Lauren Chambray skirt.

So comfortable, who would want to work in it? Ralph Lauren has returned with lots of Chambray in his

Ralph Lauren Denim & Supply line is (as per RL)  it is "born out of the warehouse and artistic communities of Brooklyn."

I'll just say I'll wear it ----to be comfortable. 

So-Ralph Lauren is back with comfortable-

& Chambray.

& while this isn't quite the skirt, it is a lot like my original Ralph-and it is a check,
So there's that-and you know how I love a check.

If not the COMME des GARCONS Chambray -it's the Ralph Chambray.

Now what about a room full of Chambray slip covers for summer- or checks of any sort.

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again, with the checks

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André Ostier, Balmain Soie Pirate by Pierre Balmain, Summer 1952

 photograph by  CHRIS KOPERSKI

the check obsession, more here

just checking in

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Jill Sander on the runway, Spring 2012.

see it all at VOGUE.com

& about checks in other little augury posts here

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checking it out- once & again

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not to flog the dead horse-which is an absolutely horrible expression & what exactly does it mean, anyway?

Perhaps its first usage is found in 17th century slang- "His land 'twas sold to pay his debts; All went that way, for a dead horse, as one would say "- meaning something is owed before it is earned. From the halls of Parliament in 1867 British politician and orator, John Bright- in referring to the Reform Bill of 1867, said trying to persuade them would be like trying to 'flog a dead horse to make it pull a load.' And finally from The Globe in 1872-quoted someone  saying -to have "rehearsed that [...] lively operation known as flogging a dead horse." (The Oxford English Dictionary)

 Carolina Herrera 1970

but-
I would be remiss if I didn't catch up my checks and share this recent photograph from the social columns in New York of the beautiful Carolina Herrera at a charity event in the city.  Wearing one of her own designs- of course- and it's made from the check I was so carried away with at the Met Gala a few weeks ago. Not to mention the absolute confident chic of not shying away from repeating that oh so memorable check! Of course this is the Lady that manages to pull off  the elegant sweep of a ball gown & fitted shirt-impeccably tailored, both.

images above from Vogue.com

the designer at home 

Checks can do wonders for a room- take a look at this Lars Bolanger room. The check draws  you right in, along with some equally bold accenting elements: the swirling Renaissance columns, the hide rug -all anchor an airy French sofa & chairs.

One of my great and gracious readers sent  this Michael Smith  House Beautiful image to me after I had waxed so about checks. What a gorgeous room and again, we find many strong elements of note.  A seemingly formal room, perhaps brought down to earth a bit by the check curtains- but certainly their presences pleases and wakes up what might otherwise be a too formal room. Noted pieces in the room are the striking Chinese ancestral portraits and an exuberant French gilt settee. Another special touch -the meandering Indiennes print used on a number of pieces throughout the room.

Michael Smith (from House Beautiful)

This room-profuse with the scent of summer-it has to be the pale lovingly washed check slipcovers cooling off a sofa and a pair of wing chairs. This picture has been in my design files so long it doesn't carry room credits-sorry. I especially, need I mention, love the checks, but also that the designer or design savvy owner has selected the check to make up the slipcovers &then simply- let It be. No fussing or too much pressing on slipcovers, the cords and checks waver a bit off course-the skirts sag and rise a little, but  what's the point of slipcovers without the actual ease and devil my care attitude they bring to mind. Slipcovers are not for the You-of the rigid mind.
Stay away from slipcovers if you have any idea of imposing perfection on your rooms.
You will be sadly disappointed in this casual & easy elegance.

The John Stefanidis room with formally designed window dressing - a swag & jabot over full flowing curtains- helps create a less serious air to an otherwise formal interior. Imagine-if you will- the same design in a red silk damask, maybe edged in pretty passementerie- Pretty yes, but not as inviting.  A check manages to maintain its dignity in any setting-think of Jane Austen when you think checks- always trust it and it will never disappoint you. You know it will always lighten up the atmosphere & no matter how many times you see it or employ it- 
it will always come up to the mark.

A parting shot-
Suzanne Rheinstein seems to have captured the check to its imperfect perfection. Placed pleasantly on a pretty settee- curving gently around the sides-bending ever so slightly off course-in all its charm. Fiddle on those who disavow a check -for its never quite lining up on curves- or for that matter, the naysayers who remind you -
Oh No- Never a check on a tufted chair!
It works-
It always works & still manages to inspire.

 

I can't promise that check won't make an encore. I'd be very surprised if they didn't inspire us both again & again.

 CAROLINA HERRERA here

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last time I checked

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as I am often told, I can get carried away- do you?
shouldn't we all?
isn't that what inspiration is all about? being enthusiastic about a single perfect rose- an slightly imperfect nose?

this particular photograph of Evelyn Lauder  is one I've held on to  for some years.

Why?

What could be more-

Simple,

Elegant,

Confident.

The central decoration on the table- a tray of broccoli- & it works.
A tiny silk check jacket
A smile.
All radiating confidence, how perfect!
&
how simply perfect.

It must be the check.



(image from Town & Country)


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pure south pacific check

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reader Karen, dropped this in the box today, and how glad I am  that she did.
remember this check?

the film & score- South Pacific.

& the dress, it is very reminiscent of the Christopher Kane creations.


the simple lines of the dress  echos the innocence of an era just before the Second World War touched down on Hawaii's sacred shores.
how can a  simple check say all that?

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Colette Check

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when checking in with Colette on checks-She said she had checked out the checks at Christopher Kane last Spring & was wowed, but passed on them.
His collection of checks is what mad geniuses like Kane do with checks.  The Spring 2010 collection was inspired by the cult of Jonestown,  a 1980's image of Nancy Reagan strolling the grounds of the White House  & Jeremy Irons' tailored vest in the film Lolita.
GOT IT? Oh Yes, and gospel & spiritual music.
That clears things up quite a bit-Yes?

Irregardless- the intricacy of pattern play, tailoring, the mix of beading  & Oh yes! Checks-makes it worth checking into.

As always Colette has an eye for showing Us whats' what & putting her finger on that certain something that sticks with Us.

In the Checkered Past story I suggested she do up something in checks for her next evening at Nicky Haslam's Hunting Lodge-  offering up several looks from past designers to inspire her.  She writes "I constantly battle my penchant for checks (and stripes for that matter)...i cant seem to stop! Christopher Kane's gingham dresses last year were a painful temptation that i resisted thinking them too 'on trend'...and now of course, regret. Lesson learnt and i will send pics of the ensemble i now feel i simply MUST whip up."

Checkmate!, Can't Wait.
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Met Check

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Carolina Herrera at the Met Costume Institute Gala, May 2, 2011

more about my checkered past here

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my checkered past

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The first check of memory-at age 4 years- was a little tiny voile gingham made for me by my great MaMa. She was a wonderful seamstress and of course I loved a check even then.
Certainly not my first, In Fact- I never met a check I did not like...
Another check -a small yellow one sewn for a colonial dance in the first grade also comes to mind-as does the dance partner-still not happy at that pairing.

My mother wore them.
We picnicked on them.
There were aprons, tablecloths, napkins-

dress by Adrian

I've heard it said that a house will speak to you-If  you listen. Has yours talked to you lately? The house I left 5 years ago spoke in dulcet elegant tones. It wanted to speak French-but I insisted not. It knew I was right- that said- it was very Continental. A formal room of Manuel Canovas linen floral curtains on the wall, silk damasks-you get the picture.
The house I live in now spoke immediately-Besides saying Help! -it said-in a calm voice-You love checks!
Why not?
I don't count them for this story, that would mean I was on shaky ground in using more than One.
Two.
Three?

Red Checks  Blue Checks, Tan Checks-throughout the house.  Checks find their way into my design projects too. They live comfortably in any room and I especially love them looking smart & yes-even a little chic in my own bath (above) where the walls are a sort of  spiritual misty lavender and two shower curtains are made up in a large red voile check- paired with a Chanel poster. Neither has complained about the placement.

Clients rarely reject a check-unless they have a lingering hangup about kitchen towels or tab curtains from there own past. When thinking about checks - think Versatility.

My list of rooms that wear them well:
the kitchen of course- though this one is maybe too obvious-like shells at the beach cottage.
I love checks in a Nursery- large Blue checks from Greeff- with scallopy valances and canopies,
a Master Suite- large Blue Schumacher checks for the curtains, bed coverings, a headboard in a room with yellow walls,
the Guest Room- Black check curtains paired with a small red windowpane quilted checks & Black check twin headboards, finishing with a black and white Brunschwig toile paper on the walls.

A CHECKERED PAST

GREAT ROOMS- Memorable Checks

Charles de Beistegui at Groussay

Interestingly -in the 18th century, slipcovers were necessity, keeping the many fine furnishings from the inevitable weather -dust and dirt that permeated  the most  sound  houses. The Duchess of Norfolk had check covers for all of the furnishing in London's Norfolk House. She was quite firm that  the  color scheme of each room be echoed in the check.  From the inventory the Duchess noted for the ground floor Great Drawing Room the case covers were in 'blew and white check' to match the 'blew Imbost Paper.'

a 1947 Check Evening dress and stole-timeless & as beautiful today as it was 64 years ago.

Carolina Herrera Fall 2011

The ever elegant Carolina Herrera (above) a does not hesitate to use a silk check for the tailored ball gown- How much do you love this dress?



When made of silk or silk tafetta, Checks are elegant, romantic- equally unexpected- large bold checks in the Living Room & tiny ones on dog collars. Large or small -in silk- a check abandons its ordered regimented nature and swishes from skirt to curtain to pillow.

Gorgeous silk checks from Kravet, Stroheim & Romann, Cowtan & Tout and  Robert Allen.

A silk check from Carelton V (above) in my bedroom has something of the little details I love.  I used this check with a finely stitched diagonal playing over the pattern on a French chair.
Some find checks an easy fix- I could not agree more! Often easy is best.
In culling tear sheets and scrap books-I found little french chairs dotting the pages : in the late Nan Kempner's closet- a check covered French chair & check boxes peak out of the curtained closet.

in Carolyne Roehm's makeshift office in Weatherstone's carriage house-serving after a fire swept through the main house in 1999. (below)

Checks can also double as trimmings & bands to add detail to chairs & curtains.

- details count
checks used as trimmings

A 1957 day dress photographed by John French with the check pattern running on the diagonal to create a completely unique look. As with any sort of sewing- simple or complex-the matching of seams must be perfect.

NOTABLE CHECKERED PASTS

 GREAT ROOMS -Memorable Checks

 

Valentino's Living Room

check Curtains & dining chairs beyond

When ask  about his love for checks and plaids?  Valentino says- "Why not? Squares are such perfect shapes." According to IN Style 2006 - all of  Valentino's homes are stocked with checks and plaid towels, sheets, pillows, linens-as well as curtains and sofas. (above) Valentino's Appia Antica Villa- in Rome.

Adolpho's take on the romantic check- inspired by the 1967 Swedish film Elvira Madigan

(Vogue 1968)

Nicky Haslam

something about Chairs

Nicky Haslam used a check in his own dining room at the Hunting Lodge-once owned by John Fowler. An elegant room with formal notes- more gavotte than minuet.

Nicky Haslam's Hunting Lodge Dining Room

(above pages from Nicky Haslam's website here) , I love Haslam's use of a large check on the backs of leather chairs in the Kitchen of this project (at left). The checks used over 40 years ago for evening skirts would be perfect for dining with Nicky at the Hunting Lodge. I bet Colette, Nicky's colleague , has one ready and waiting just in case-I can not imagine she doesn't. She has a decided penchant for finding the perfect fabric from their library an having something made up to show stopping effect.

an evening skirt made from yards & yards of blue and white gingham check  taffeta

(from Vogue 1968)

A curtained day bed canopy  in my upstairs hall with a simple coarse tan check of cotton trimmed in a wooden tassel trim

GREAT ROOMS- Memorable Checks

Perhaps one of the most famous room-at least the room of checks I fell in love with at age 11. In the early 1970's Gloria swathed the family's Living Room at their Southampton home- Summertime in beautiful check gingham.

Jack Robinson photographed the rooms and family for House & Garden in June 1972.

Checks are forgiving in a sense that relatively inexpensive ones can made top notch rooms-however impeccable workmanship is imperative-Seamstresses that match checks, upholsterers that do the same.
The pink checks shown here are from Pindler & Pindler and along with these two large patterns matching smaller  checks are available.


I used a tiny Cowtan & Tout windowpane on the cupboard to keep it covered and pretty- The Cowtan and Tout checks probable have the best of all the Checkered pasts- The color range is beautiful-still one of the best to the trade and the grounds are equal to the color.

How many times has Eaton Check (pictured below) come to the rescue? Each time I use it is looks new, fresh-crisp. What a check should be?
Really-I never met a check I didn't like.

it's a toss up!

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